All About Bag Interfacing

interfacing
Today, I have the pleasure of talking about one of my most favorite things in the world…interfacing! This post will be concentrated on the particular Pellon Interfacings that I use while making bags. Interfacing makes up 25% of my stash…no lie! It’s one of those things that you just need to have on hand at all times, because you’ll use it in most any project – to make quilted items, bags, garments, you name it!

Pellon interfacing is available in the U.S. If you are one of my friends in another country, I have put together this helpful interfacing conversion chart for Vilene interfacing that you might use when making a bag. For the purpose of this article, I will refer to particular Pellon interfacings, but feel free to glance at the chart to note the interfacing available in your area.

Pellon Interfacing
Vilene Conversion
987F Fusible Fleece
H630 Iron On Lightweight Fleece
TP971F Fusible Thermolam
H640 Iron On High Loft Fleece or 272 Thermolam
SF-101 Shape Flex Fusible Woven
G700 Woven Fusible
520 Deco-Fuse Firm
S520 Firm Interlining
70 Peltex Sew-in
S80 Heavy Sew-in
71F Peltex Single-sided Fusible
S520 Firm Iron-on
809 Decor Bond
H250 Iron-on

I assembled this chart with the help of the lovely folks at Pellon.

Edit 10/01/14 – Pellon is now widely available in Australia under the Legacy brand. Many of the names and item numbers are the same, with one small change (for example, Fusible Fleece under the Legacy brand has number L-987F, so basically they are just adding an ‘L’ in front of the original Pellon number). The main change is that Decor Bond under the Legacy brand is L-809 Fuse-N-Shade).

So let’s get started! Note: always use a pressing cloth when fusing your interfacing to fabric! Pellon interfacing is also available in boxes of product, usually around 2-3 yards per box. You can see examples of boxed interfacing in my photo above; most specialty quilt shops will stock the packaged interfacing!

Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece

Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece can be found by-the-yard at your local fabric store packaged on a bolt with a pale green label on it. It is fusible on one side, which means you can feel the ‘glue’ on one side, and this is the side that should go against the wrong side of your fabric. This interfacing has a bit of a loft to it. I like using it, but usually reserve it for either the lining of a bag (to add extra body), for straps (so that they are padded, but without any extra bulk), for small flaps, etc. I don’t often use it for the exterior of a bag because I have found that over a large area, it can possibly make the fabric look slightly crinkly because of the loft of the fleece.

One way that you can smooth out your fabric when using fusible fleece is to first fuse a layer of Shape Flex (which I’ll talk about later) to the fabric, then follow it with a layer of fusible fleece.

Another great use for fusible fleece is that you can cut small squares of it (approximately 2″ x 2″) to reinforce a magnetic snap that you might be using in your bag. Every time you open and close a magnetic snap, it puts pressure on your fabric. To resist against everyday wear-and-tear, slide the prongs of your snap through your fabric, and then put the square of fleece on top before you close the prongs. You shouldn’t have any worries about your fabric tearing under the strain of the magnetic snap now!

 

Pellon TP971F Fusible Thermolam

book7

I absolutely love Thermolam. It also comes on a bolt with a light green label on it. It is also fusible on one side, so the tacky side should go against the wrong side of the fabric. Thermolam is fleece, but it is a needled fleece, which means it is denser and lies flat. It has a ton of uses. If I’m making a smaller quilted project like a mini quilt, mug rug, or oven mitts, I use Thermolam before I quilt the project. It eliminates the need for using pins or spray baster.

But this article is for bag-making. When I’m making a bag or other accessory, I like it to have body. Even if I was making a simple tote bag, I would not be happy if it was just 2 layers of fabric. Just too thin for me. I know it boils down to personal preference, but if I make a bag, I want it to be able to carry 20lb. without tearing at the bottom. It needs to feel like it has some substance to it.

So, if I am making a soft bag, I always always use Thermolam. I would, say, use the Thermolam fused to the exterior fabric of the bag, and possibly either Shape Flex or fusible fleece fused to the lining fabric of the bag. Thermolam, once fused, will make your fabric look nice and smooth. Depending on your iron, you might need to fuse it for a little bit longer than the manufacturer instructions (I’d suggest testing on a small piece first if you’ve never used it before). I find I sometimes need to iron it up to double the time as directed. Another personal tip is that I like to iron it (misting with a bit of water) with the interfacing side toward my iron, and when I’m sure it’s properly fused, I like to flip it over and iron on top of the fabric (with my pressing cloth in place, of course!). This will give your fabric an incredibly flat and smooth look.

 

Pellon SF-101 Shape Flex Fusible Woven

I use this in 100% of my bags. I might use it in different ways, but bar none, it is the most important interfacing in my stash. I fuse Shape Flex to every single pocket that I make. I fuse it to facings in garments. I for sure fuse it to an area around a zipper to help reinforce that area. You can find this interfacing in your local shop with a light purple label on the bolt.

Shape Flex will make a quilt-weight cotton have the feel, once fused, of a decor-weight or canvas-weight fabric. It will give the fabric a bit of sturdiness. As with the previous interfacings, the rough tacky side should go against the wrong side of your fabric before ironing. It is perfect as a stand-alone interfacing if you are making a small pouch or other smaller accessory. You can even combine it with other interfacings. Someone asked me the other day what is the most interfacing I have used on one piece of fabric, and the answer is 3. I like to experiment a lot, and there is no right or wrong answer. I might use a layer of Shape Flex, one of Thermolam, and another of 520. I get a little crazy sometimes.

 

520 Deco-Fuse Firm

book4

Although this interfacing is great, it is not widely available (I believe you can get it at Hancocks and on their site on-line). If you are looking to make a very stiff bag, then this is the interfacing for you. Even though it is very stiff, it is about as thick as a piece of construction paper, which makes it reasonably easy to sew. Another good thing about this interfacing is that once it is fused, it never has that ‘fused’ look. So your fabric will look nice and smooth. It also holds a finger press, so I usually never have to iron any seams, I just use my fingers.

As with any stiff interfacing, it can be tricky to maneuver your bag through your sewing machine. I would strongly suggest cutting this interfacing 1/2″ smaller than your fabric pieces, in order to reduce bulk in the seam allowance. I say sew slowly, and come up with creative ways to get the stitching done. For instance, if you have to sew half a line of stitching, stop, feed the bag in from the opposite side to continue stitching, do that. Honestly, no one is going to see the wrong side of your bag, so it doesn’t have to be the prettiest stitching in the world (in my opinion).

520 Deco-Fuse is a great way to get a store-bought look to your bags. However, I think that Peltex #70 sew-in interfacing is a perfect substitute (see below).

 

Peltex 70 Sew-in

aer

This interfacing is a little bit thicker than the 520 Deco-Fuse, and it is stiff as well. It comes on a bolt with a yellow label. Because it is a sew-in interfacing, it will not fuse to your fabric. You can either baste the interfacing to your fabric using a small seam allowance, OR (and this is my favorite method)…you can cut a piece of Shape Flex that is the same size as your pattern piece. Then cut a piece of Peltex sew-in from your pattern piece, but trim it 1/2″ smaller all the way around. Center the Peltex sew-in on the wrong side of your fabric, then place the fusible side of your Shape Flex on top. When you fuse the Shape Flex, it will seal the Peltex sew-in along the 1/2″ edges against your fabric. Having a smaller piece of Peltex sew-in will also help to reduce the bulk in your seam allowance.

The bottom of my Aeroplane Bags sewing pattern, pictured above, has Peltex in it (the small printed panel on the bottom of the bag). Since the bag was designed to carry a weekend’s worth of clothing or a featherweight sewing machine, I thought it was a necessity to have the bottom panel be extra-strong.

Another great reason to have some Peltex #70 around is for bag handle inserts. Some sewing patterns for bags call for you to create sort of a double-bias piece for each handle, meaning that your raw edges would not be exposed. I cut a strip of 1-1/2″ wide Peltex #70 for each of the handles in the bag below, and slide them into each handle piece before topstitching along each long edge. It makes the handles very stable. I’ve also used fusible fleece and Thermolam as handle inserts before. I suppose it just depends on what look you’re going for, but any will work.

 

Peltex 71 Single-sided Fusible

This interfacing is great when you want to fuse a small area of a project (such as the flap of a bag or clutch), but I find that sometimes when you are using it on a larger area of a project (for example, the exterior of a bag), it *can* give the fabric a ‘fused’ (aka crinkly) look.

It is a stiff interfacing like the Peltex Sew-in and the 520 Deco-Fuse. If you need a heavy/stiff interfacing that you’d like to fuse, I’d recommend the Peltex Sew-in.


809 Decor Bond

book11

I began using this interfacing quite a bit, late last year. If there are panels or handles of a bag that you would like to give a stiff appearance to, but not want to look crinkly if you happen to fold or crease them, this is the interfacing for you.
Actually, I use this interfacing in 2 layers. I will first fuse a layer of Shape Flex against the wrong side of my fabric, and then follow up with 2 layers of Decor Bond. However, the Decor Bond I will cut approximately 1/2″ small on all sides of the particular pattern piece, to keep bulk out of the seam allowance. The yellow bag above was made using this method; the green solid panels only had the Decor Bond layers, in order to help that top panel stand up firmly.
You can also use a layer or two of Decor Bond if you want your bag to stand up by itself, but not be as stiff as Deco Shape or Peltex.

 

Psssttt! Did you know that if you don’t have any interfacing handy, Pellon Wonder Under (a fusible web) will turn any fabric into a fusible interfacing? For example, you can use Pellon Nature’s Touch or Warm and Natural batting in place of Pellon Thermolam, or another quilting cotton in place of Pellon Shape Flex. How’s that!!
I hope this article has shed a little bit of light on bag interfacing. I know it’s something that we don’t talk about a lot, but we probably should, because it’s one of the things that sewers can find confusing, and I get asked a lot of questions about it!

By Annie’s Soft and Stable

Also, another favorite interfacing that I started using in 2013 and use in just about every bag is By Annie’s Soft and Stable. It is my heavy favorite, and if you notice the bag patterns in my shop, you’ll see that they were all made using Soft and Stable. I invite you to read my separate blog post about Soft and Stable, and check out the video that I shot:



Many sewing patterns only name interfacing in generic terms: light-midweight interfacing, heavyweight interfacing, etc. That can make it sort of difficult to navigate. To generalize, I would say, in my opinion, that for a light-midweight notation, you can use Shape Flex, fusible fleece, or Thermolam. Heavyweight or stiff interfacing would be either of the Peltex or the Pellon 520 (possibly 2 layers of Decor Bond). Again, others might have different opinions on this.

I have washed bags made out of just about every interfacing. You can do it, some just look a bit more wrinkly than others (bring out the iron!). I’m not really a big fan of washing my bags, though, so I wouldn’t do it unless you had some sort of emergency (like grape juice).

 There are no right or wrong answers to using interfacing. I find that the best way to learn more about it is to use it in all of your projects…tweak your interfacing based on your personal preference: what kind of shape are you interested in, how much stiffness, what kind of body.

Feel free to ask any specific questions about interfacing in the comments! I will answer! If you are working with a certain pattern, feel free to let me know if you’re confused on what interfacing to use, and I’ll be glad to help you navigate the waters!

96 thoughts on “All About Bag Interfacing

  1. Thank you SO much for this post, Sara. I just wandered into bag making recently and have been often confused about all these products. You’ve covered it all here – this is wonderful!!

  2. Wow this is a great post. I use interfacing for garments but rarily in quilting. I’m gonna print this off and read it more carefully and give them a try. I have used it for a bag once or twice, but it is not something I reach for as a general rule.

    thanks for putting the time into this comparisons.

    cathy

  3. This is getting top place in my bookmarked folder of Sewing Stuff To KNOW! I hate that there are so many options for interfacing and not knowing what to use, so this definitely helps! I also hate that I don’t live somewhere that I can just go down to the store and look/feel them all, but instead have to make a choice and order it online without really knowing what I’m getting. I think your article will help a lot, so thank you!!

  4. Thanks Sara for this very informative post. You know I’ve been asking questions which you answered very nicely. I was waiting for this information for very long. I’ll definetly print it. The timing is perfect to get ready for Purse Palooza. I just ordered some interfacing I’ve never used before and will do some experiments. I feel more confident now. Thanks again.

  5. This just got bookmarked. I’m sure I will refer to it often as I always knew to use interfacing, but it does take some know-how or trial and error to get the right one for the job.

  6. Saved this page! Fantastic information! I too have a large stash of interfacing(s) from fusible to sew in- love the stuff – I can’t wait to get started on the Purse I have in mind this coming month! Thanks for the info!

  7. You’ve answered almost all the questions I’ve had about what interfacing to use when making bags/purses. However, I still have one more. Do you ever use interfacing on the lining fabric of your bag, and if so, which one?

    I’m going to print out this post and put in my purse so I’ll always have it handy at the store when I’m trying to decide what interfacing I need to buy. I can never remember the numbers, and the sales associates at the stores never seem to know what kind is best. Thanks for doing all the work for us!

  8. This was great information. I usually use fusible fleece on all my totes and purses and sometimes it didn’t seem to be just what was needed. I will look to see if i can find some of the others that you mentioned . Thanks for helping with this information.

  9. How do you keep all these interfacings organized in your sewing room? Have you made labels for them or just use the running label that is cut with the interfacing?

  10. thank you so much, this is a great post, very useful, particularly to non-english speaking seamstresses! now i´ll have your post as a reference when trying to get pellon´s (or any other brand, wich is something, btw, difficult to find)interface for my projects!

  11. Thanks for this post! I didn’t know there were stiffer fusibles that didn’t make your fabric look crinkly — once I get through my bolt of sew-in (or am feeling really flush, heh), I’m going to try Decor Bond! Oh, and I like that I got to feel validated in my love for Shape Flex. :D

  12. Love interfacing! It really is the secret to a nice bag. (I’ve even been known to wander around craft fairs with my mom pointing out the products that would be improved with some interfacing…)

    To organize my interfacings I just keep them on the bolt. I don’t necessarily by them by the bolt, but you can find one that’s almost empty and buy what’s on it and ask to keep the cardboard. Then when I buy more of the same I reload it! This also keeps them from getting folded or creased.

  13. love that photo! haha! This is such a great post. I’ve bookmarked it for referencing. I never know what to use if the pattern doesn’t specify.

  14. Wow that’s a great post, and interesting photo you have there :p Made me laugh. This is the most comprehensive and useful post I’ve seen on interfacing to date, and now I feel like I can actually make better choices instead of using my flimsy lightweight fusible garment interfacing for everything I make!

  15. Thanks for the great post! I also love Shape Flex! And you are so right about patters, they are general as they don’t want to promote a product, so this is a GREAT help to know which one to use!! You rock :)

  16. Hey Sara, I love the blog. I have a question. Do you know which ones are washable? I like to know if my bags are washable before I start, so maybe if its not, I may make a purse that is for special occasions only. You do talk about some interfacings that I have never tried. Thanks for the information. Love all your purses/bags in the article. I’m gathering all the suppiles for your Purse Palooza. This will be fun!

  17. Excellent thank you. The girl at the fabric store looked at me funny when I asked about peltex (Canada)…I brought home some super heavy fusible that was quite pricy, so I’ll see how it works. I’d love to see a list of online shops that sell the inter facings you discussed.

  18. Thanks for the comprehensive list! Now I know where to turn for all my interfacing needs! :) also you answered my question about why my pretty pleats tote has a bit of an “interfaced” look… I need the pressing cloth and I should have gone with the other interfacing.

    I was really surprised at how many things I’d done before that you’d mentioned– like interfacing Warm & Natural into place… :)

  19. I think I’m printing this out and keeping it handy with my stash of interfacing. There was a sale at Joann’s awhile back and I just bought yards of nearly everything, even though I had no clue what to do with it once I got it home!

  20. What a fantastic post!! Thank you so much! When I first started making bags this fall I found your last post on interfacing and have referred to it often. I LOVE the comparison chart at the beginning! I have both of Lisa Lam’s bag making books and she uses Vilene interfacings since she is from the UK and I sometimes wonder what the appropriate Pellon substitute would be. I have a question for you, have you heard of Decovil? It is made by Vilene and is a non woven interfacing that gives fabrics a “leather-like handle.” I wonder if we have anything like that here in the U.S. or if you were aware of a good source for it. Everything that I’ve read about it says that it’s an amazing product and easy to use so I’m dying to get my hands on some! I enjoy your blog so much and appreciate your insight on all your fun projects! I’m looking forward to Purse Palooza and have some fun bags waiting to be sewn!

  21. I could not imagine anyone saying they love interfacing…. I have been completely baffled & at the mercy of the expertise of whomever was working at the store. I think your post is perfect…. Enough info to make an informed decsion and not so much that it overwhelms. Plus what perfect timing…. I want to make some purses this summer & already have some fabric selected, so now off to the store for the RIGHT interfacing. Thanks!

  22. Thank you for this post! I am going to share it with my followers. When I started sewing I was overwhelmed with interfacing and didn’t even know where to start…I wish this would have been available then. :)

  23. Thank you sew much!
    Since I can’t buy any pellon interfacing in Germany (at least I haven’t found a place that sells this yet) this conversation chart was well needed.
    I have always been wondering and trying to figure out which vliene stuff to use and you helped me soooo much with this!
    Thanks again.

  24. ねえ、超人気のグッチ 財布が入荷しました!!オフホワイト・ワインレッドの  グッチ トートバッグが上品でエレガント!そんなに嬉しいです!!
    この gucci バッグ、艷やかに光る表面にはコーティングが施され、キズや汚れがつきにくく実用性にも施されています!たくさん都会人のアイテムですよ!!これらのGucci 製品がどれもこれもすきだ!!ほんとに綺麗!!この機械を逃げさないだよ!!

  25. great post- so nice to have all this info in one place and i like the comparisons between products. this will certainly help me choose interfacings in the future

  26. thanks so much for posting this sara – i’m in australia and always have problems finding the correct interfacing – my only question is what is the equivalent of Pellon 808 Craft Fuse that kim used in her lindsay tote bag ?

  27. I have been sewing forever & this is the 1st time I’ve seen any discussion of interfacings. Very comprehensive & I really enjoyed it. Stood in a fabric store a few weeks back trying to figure out what to use for some bags as I was unhappy with what I had used before. I have a few English & Australian books, so am very happy with the equivalency chart. Thanks!

  28. Thank you for your great help when it comes to interfacings. I never seem to get the effect that I am looking for in a bag. Now, maybe I can achieve that!
    Thank you, again.

  29. I’m sure I’ll be referencing this frequently.

    Here’s my question–how do your store it? I’m trying to pick-up a yard here and there of some of the different types so I have it on hand and don’t have to run to the store. The pieces I’ve had in the past have gotten pretty wrinkled and jumbled, and I often lose the directions, etc. Pinterest has failed me so far! Thanks.

  30. Sara

    Please help!! I am so thankful that I found this post :D I am making my very first diaper bag and in need of some interfacing advice. The pattern I have says: if a lighter weight fabric is utilized, it is necessary to add interfacing to the body, sides, base and handles. For this project I have 100% cotton quilting fabric. I’ve never made a bag before only quilts so I am a little lost as to which type of interfacing to use. I would like a sturdy bag that will last as I have two kiddos and many things to stuff inside said bag :) but I don’t want to make this a really difficult to sew project to sew as it is my first time making something like this. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you have!!! I can email you the pattern if you’d like.

    Thank You

  31. Sara

    Please help!! I am so thankful that I found this post :D I am making my very first diaper bag and in need of some interfacing advice. The pattern I have says: if a lighter weight fabric is utilized, it is necessary to add interfacing to the body, sides, base and handles. For this project I have 100% cotton quilting fabric. I’ve never made a bag before only quilts so I am a little lost as to which type of interfacing to use. I would like a sturdy bag that will last as I have two kiddos and many things to stuff inside said bag :) but I don’t want to make this a really difficult to sew project to sew as it is my first time making something like this. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you have!!! I can email you the pattern if you’d like.

    Thank You
    loveralphsworld@yahoo.com

  32. What’s the best interfacing for cosmetic bags? I’ve used a thicker interfacing because I’m thinking of quilting diagonal lines across the bag, but it doesn’t seem stiff enough. Any suggestions for something different and maybe even a combo of interfacing? Thanks!

  33. Interfacings have really confused me, and this post really straightens me out. But I’ve got a novice question: When cutting a heavier or stiffer interfacing smaller than the pattern piece, do you mean that the heavier/stiffer interfacing will not be caught in the seam, or just barely caught in the seam? Thanks in advance if you can clarify this for me! I do mostly quilting and precious little garment or home dec sewing.

  34. Aloha Sara! Thank you for such a wonderful and detailed post about interfacings-it’s by far the best I’ve come across online! I make bags and I didn’t even know about Pellon 520 deco-fuse firm! I live in Hawaii and have very limited options for interfacings. I may have missed it, but have you found a wholesaler that sells 520 deco-fuse firm by the bolt? Mahalo♥.

  35. I am curious as to what kind of interfacing to use to make an envelope clutch. Does the flap need to be a different type? I am using bottom weight jean fabric for my project.

  36. I just came across this post from Pinterest. This is amazing! I’ve used interfacing based on my own preferences, but it’s great to know the differences and some good uses for it. Thank you! I’m making a bag this weekend and this will help me better decide how I want my finished project to look.

  37. Hi Sara,

    Thank you for this wonderful post! It very thorough and super helpful! I’ve been thinking of making a few key fobs for some friends and I was wondering if you could help me find the right interfacing or interfacing combo for it. My original plan was to cut a 1 inch strip of thicker cotton batting (Craft select from quilter’s dream batting) and wrapping some lawn cotton fabric around it to create some body. But after reading your blog, I’m thinking of layering some interfacing to give it more structure and durability. My only concern is I would like it to still have movement and not be overly stiff as it would be worn around the wrist. Could you recommend a interfacing combo that might work well with this little project? Also, if possible, I was hoping to avoid wrinkles that might form on the underside when folded. For this purpose, do you think it would be better to make a 1 inch interfacing strip vs. fusing the layers to the fabric and then folding and pressing to make a 1 inch strip. Sorry if it sounded a little confusing. Please let me know if you would like me to email you any photos. Thanks!

  38. Thank you for your post, the all interfacing world is so much clearer now! This is very detailed and I love all the little tips you give along with basic knowledge of what to use when.

  39. I wanted to thank you, I just used your conversion of Pellon products for Vilene, I live in Greece and it is very hard to find Pellon and most directions call for Pellon materials, thank you for the conversion chart.

  40. Thank you so much! I have been tearing my hair out trying to buy the right interfacing here in Australia and I was just about to give up when I came upon your article. Thank you again.

  41. Has anyone found comparable Pellon products to use in place of Inn-Control and Inn-Spire? I have several projects I want to do and these products are hard to find and expensive!

  42. I am planning to make a toddler Dora backpack using fleece for the exterior; what interfacing would you recommend to give it shape but not make it stiff, so it’s still comfortable as a backpack… or will it work with just about any lighter weight interfacing since fleece has body of its own?
    This will be my first bag-making attempt so any and all advice will be welcome.

  43. Thanks so much for this info! I have a question for you: I want to make an e-reader cover that looks like a book, and I was wondering what would be the best interfacing (or combo of interfacing) to use for this project? Basically, what I am going to do is print a vintage book cover onto fabric and use this to be the “front” of my “book” e-reader cover. Hope I am making sense! I would appreciate any tips you could have to offer. Thank you so much for your time, I really appreciate it!

    Sincerely,

    Alicia S.

  44. Thank you for this. It is exactly in information I was looking for. I am from the UK so I am always looking for a substitute for Pellon interfacing….now I have your very useful table. Thank you.

  45. THANK YOU for taking the time to put all of this info about interfacing in one place. I have made a few bags in the last year or so and none of them had the feel I wanted! Now I have a much better idea of what to use, when to use it and when to pair it with another interfacing. Going shopping right now! Thanks.

  46. This is great! I have really wanted to try the Deco Fuse (520), but haven’t been able to find it anywhere!! I have been using the 71F and get that crinkly look for sure, plus it ‘cracks’ easily.

    Is the 520 for sale to the general public???

    Thanks so much for the reviews!

  47. This is an amazingly informative article. Thank you so much for sharing this information. I do have a question that I’m certain you could answer. I recently purchased a pattern for making shoes. I love the idea of custom made flats because I have hard to fit feet. I’m also intrigued by the possibility of matching shoes with the clothing I sew. However, the pattern mentions vaguely that a stiff interfacing will make the shoes look crisper, but doesn’t give specifics. What would you recommend that would make the fabric crisp enough while still being able to bend over the toes smoothly?

  48. I have a question. I use the Pellon 937 for Totes and such, and I have scraps left over of various sizes. Some small and some ‘large’, but not the size of anything I’m making. Can you piece these pieces like you would regular batting, or just fuse them to the fabric ‘butted up’ close? How would it hold up during normal wear and tear? Thanks for your suggestions…..

  49. Hi Sara, Thank you so much for this amazing info. I have just picked up 4 yards of “CRAFT fuse” from Pellon. There’s no number on the plastic liner. Do you have any info on this one? Strength? wrinkles?

  50. HI Sara – I just wanted to reach out and give you a huge virtual hug and THANK YOU! for this awesome info on interfacing (especially in reference to bag use). I am a bag lover and have recently started sewing (got a machine for Christmas) and am gobbling up whatever info I can find online. I found the link to this post on Pinterest and I have to say it has been the most helpful so far in explaining some of the differences in interfacing. Thank you so much again and know that the wonderful info you put in this post is going to good use!

  51. I am still really confused. I am looking for a heavyweight interfacing and when I search for such I keep getting directed to pellon hi loft fusible fleece. I would hate to buy a bolt of the stuff if it is not quite what I need! I am trying to make a purse

  52. Sara, thank you so much for this wonderful post. I’m so new to this topic. I was feeling very discourage and I was thinking I made a big mistake making my husband getting a sewing machine for me until I found your post. I’m inspired and enthusiastic again. Thank you.

  53. I am finding that the lining of my clutch bags always crease in places where the flap folds down. Is this something that is impossible to avoid? I have been using the one sided peltex on the exterior fabric and 101 on the lining. I am frustrated! Please advise!

  54. Sara, I love this post! You are a lifesaver.

    I’m trying to perfect toiletry bags. I’ve tried featherweight interfacing on my lining and fusible fleece / thermolam on the outer fabric, but the bags aren’t as sturdy as I’d like. I’m going to try the Deco Fuse and Shape Flex. I don’t know how to do piping yet but I’d like them to hold their shape on their own so I’m hoping this will do the trick.

    What do you recommend I use on the liner fabric vs outer fabric so I can still box the corners and turn them easily?

    Thank you!!!! Love this blog. <3 <3 <3

  55. Sara, your clear information on different interfacings was very helpful to me as I experimented to find the best combination for my tailored felt handbags. Thank you!

  56. What a great and informative article. I’ve just started making cosmetic bags, totes, and purses and now I know the proper interfacing for my projects. Thank you!

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