Today’s finished garment sew is the Pauline Alice Eliana Dress. I ordered this beautifully-assembled paper pattern straight from the designer in Europe. Instructions come in English, Spanish, and French (all in the same booklet, but divided by language). I was eager to make this pattern, as Pauline Alice has several other beautiful patterns. This one looked great for everyday wear. It has elastic at the hips and a cut-out on either the front or the back (the cut-out on the back is for the sleeveless version). Both versions are finished with bias.
This garment make is part of my exploration into garment sewing; you can see past posts listed on my blog here.
So let’s take a look at my measurements and what size I decided to muslin. My measurements are: bust 31-1/4″, waist 25-1/2″, hips 34-1/4″. Since this garment looked like it had a bit of ease in the waist (because of the elastic) and hips, I decided to muslin the size 34 across the board. When I made the muslin, I went pretty far in the construction: I added the sleeves, made the drawstring casing in the skirt, and gathered the top. Without doing this, I thought it would be hard to properly assess the fit. Upon finishing it, I think this assessment was about accurate. I was happy with the fit of everything, except for my body I thought that the elastic sat a bit low. To make it higher, I shortened the bodice front and back by 1″. In theory, this would also make the skirt sit higher, but I was planning on wearing tights or leggings with it, so I left the skirt alone. That was the only change that I made. I’m sorry that I don’t have a muslin shot this time, I just wasn’t thinking when I shot the other photos.
I decided to use this great new ‘Bespoke’ double-gauze fabric from Cotton + Steel. I saw it in some dresses at Quilt Market this past October, and it looked awesome. I really really wanted to keep the long sleeves in this top, but after I finished it, I felt like the long sleeves in combination with the large stripes looked overwhelming on me. I think in a different print it would have been fine, but in this one I felt like I looked a bit…clownish. I don’t know.
The instructions to this pattern were really very well written, except I had a hard time visualizing the first set of steps where the bias binding is sewn around the vented opening on the front of the top; however, Pauline Alice had a wonderful tutorial on her blog on how to complete this step, so I was saved. I think everything was straightforward and well designed, and I do think that this particular style of dress would be easy to fit on most body types. I did end up using the 2-1/2 yards of fabric called for in the pattern. The double-gauze was a bit fiddly to work with in such small pressings as for the bias finish and ties, but I got it done.
I need to be honest here…I felt very disappointed with the finished garment. I think the pattern is absolutely lovely, I just think the type of fabric I chose was not what I should have used. At first, I couldn’t figure out why it hadn’t turned out great…before I made it, I looked at this brilliant version by Lizzie, this stunning version By Maggot, and this version that Christine Haynes just posted….all beautiful. Mine kind of looks like a sack on me. I’m not sure if voile would have been a better choice…maybe I needed a fabric like voile, or something with weight like a rayon such as Christine used. I don’t know.
I think that the back of the dress especially looks kind of…meh. Or maybe it’s my body type…maybe it’s because I have a small chest, and the dress in this fabric makes me look sort of straight up and down. I don’t know. I think I would probably wear the dress with a cardigan, as I think the cardigan would help to alleviate some of the sack-ness. I feel a little sad about it, since the pattern was so great and I had a good time making it. I don’t know. What do you think? Different weight of fabric next time? Or just not suitable for me?
The front of the dress looks a lot more blousy in the pattern illustration- I wonder if that’s due to the fabric drape, your body shape, or the fact that stripes being slimming actually make it lose some of that poofy look! It might have come out of shortening the bodice as well. It looks like in the versions you linked to the bodice actually folds down over the elastic and hides it.I think ideally the elastic would sit where it does without the poof of the top being taken out. IIRC the saltspring dress accomplishes a similar effect by having two bodice layers, one blousy and one fitted.
The fabric is super cute though! If all else fails you can always turn it into a cute gathered skirt.
I think the dress calls for a softer or lighter fabric with a gentle drape. Does the pattern give recommended fabrics? Fabric recommendation is something indie pattern designers should consider, because as you can see, it does make a difference. Perhaps wearing a slip would help? It might fall/drape better with one. But otherwise, you did a nice job. 🙂
I think the pattern is too busy for the style, and it’s not soft enough to drape properly. It’s hard to make a muslin from a similar fabric before making the real thing every time, it’s also expensive. I just skipped making one and cut my next project out, and I can already see the neckline is wrong. It’s a learning curve after all. I think you should make it again, in something softer and simpler so it drapes and flows better, and you will love it. I’ve got her Malvarosa Dress pattern, and have done the muslin fot it, but I’m waiting for warmer weather to make the actual dress. If you are not happy with this attempt, it could become a skirt – or a new bag!
This is so pretty and I think you would find it sits better without the tights. Mine is more blousey for a couple of reasons, I am short 5’2″ and I didn’t shorten the bodice at all. I would shorten it for next time though. I used a very drapey knit and so the effect is different. I love your fabric, it is so pretty and I don’t think the dress is as meh as you think 🙂
The pattern is cute and you are a slim body type, so I think it must be the non-flowy fabric that is the problem here. Something with a little weight and flow to it, like a rayon challis might be nice but I can see that the double gauze you chose would be very comfy. I think as you suggested wearing it with a cardi will help.
I would maybe try some anitstatic spray, the skirt part seems to be clinging to your stockings which affects the drape. It looks OK though, perhaps try shortening the sleeves by a few inches? (just tuck them up to see how it looks).
I agree with previous comments about fabric and drape. Too bad you can’t remove the sleeves easily with all that binding, to look like view B, it would solve the boxiness of the bodice you talk about. I think its a really cute dress and other than the skirt sticking to your tights, I wouldn’t have noticed your points of criticism without the comparisons you provided. Pull out your cardis and try keep trying.
definitely the fabric – you need something more fluid than double gauze (although I can totally see why you wanted to use it – it’s GORGEOUS!). If you like the pattern I would try again with maybe a rayon. Something with a bit of weight to go with the drape (not voile – that’s too floaty).
I have no suggestions to make as I am not a garment sewist and have only made one dress in my life, but I just had to say that I love this dress! I’d like one just like it for myself, and I hope you’re able to make it work for you 🙂
The shape of the dress looks great but I think it’s the very severe stripes on the fabric that just don’t work. Am I the only one who doesn’t actually like the fabric? I would suggest that a fluid dress shape probably needs either a solid colour or a more random pattern. The stripes give the impression of a child’s first attempt at colouring in – straight stripes across something that is three dimensional.
I agree, i don’t like the stripes on this dress. Otherwise I think it looks fine.
I love the print of the dress, I think it’s just not the right substrate. I haven’t had any good luck with double gauze for adult garments, so I’ve sort of abandoned it for those. :/
I really really really love garments made from rayon, so that would be my pick! I’ve spent too much time on making garments from double gauze and quilting cotton that resulted in something I just didn’t like at.all. (This actually just happened to me again at Christmas time!)
I’m always pleasantly surprised at the lovely dresses that you sew from quilting cotton. But I still vote for rayon!
And now I must buy the new C+S rayon and this pattern!
Hi ! Thanks for the reference to my Eliana dress ! You’re hard with yourself, yours is pretty as well. Sure it will be better next time to choose a really fluid fabric, I think it’s what really make all the beauty of the dress 🙂
I think a lighter weight fabric would totally solve the sackiness of the dress. That being said, I thin kthis version is cute, and looks super comfy (I’m all about comfy clothes)
I enjoy your blog very much and have seen some great styles but I am not impressed with this pattern at all! Out of the 4 different variations, the only one that looked half-way flattering was Maggot’s. It seems only a super silky, flowing fabric would work. I also think the elastic waistband is just too pronounced. My eye was drawn immediately to the waist. Well, we have all been there-sometimes things just don’t work out after you put all that time in!
I agree with the other people who suggested that a drapier fabric might work better, and also that it might help to let more of the top blouse over the elastic. But what I really wanted to say is: you did a fantastic job of matching the stripe from the sleeve through the top! It looks fantastic! 🙂
Is it cotton? I think the problem is the fabric was too heavy for this pattern. I hate it when that happens to me, too. You pick a fabric you love, cut it all up and sew it together, and then realize it wasn’t the right match for the pattern. But it’s still a worthwhile endeavor because, as you said, you really enjoyed the process and you learned a thing or two. It’s not a bad dress by any means. Try styling it with bare legs and a cute jacket or sweater to go with it.
Oh Sara, I feel your pain. There is nothing worse than putting all your time and money into a project only to be disappointed in the final look. I think your fabric choice is the problem. you need something a bit more slippery / drapey? Is that even a word?? Good luck next time.
I personally think you are being very hard on yourself. You are small so the stripes look great. Maybe add a belt for interest in the back? It may not be your most favorite finish but you should certainly be proud of yourself because it looks very nice on you.
I think you can save this dress. It’s sticking to your tights. I would try to rework the sleeves, the look too long and narrow
You are very petite, a body type that most women would love to have. I think the style of this dress is too baggy for your slim frame. I have the somewhat of the same issue (although I am not as petite as you) and if I stick to a little more fitted and streamlined styles it’s more flattering.
I like the dress on you! You are lucky to have a slim figure and you can wear the wide horizontal stripes which would make me look like a circus tent type of figure. I think it will be very cute with a cardigan or jacket and tights and boots, etc. You did a great job and I like it!