I was also able to use Cosmo embroidery floss for the first time. The threads look so much more smooth than either DMC or Iris flosses, and they are also glossier. Pink Castle Fabrics carries some nice Cosmo floss starter kits, if you are interested in taking a peek!
Embroidery Pattern and Printable Instructions
ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 1/2″ UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.
Finished size: 9.5″ long x 7″ high x 1.75 deep
- 1/2 yard exterior fabric
- 1/2 yard interior fabric
- 9″ x 7″ piece of fabric for the embroidery (we used Kona white)
- 1/3 yard Pellon Thermolam fusible interfacing
- 1 yard Pellon SF-101 fusible woven interfacing
- 1/3 yard Pellon Decor Bond fusible interfacing
- 28″ zipper (trim to 28″ including the tape)
- fabric marker or chalk
- hand sewing needle
- zipper foot
- seam ripper
- turning tool
STEP 1 ~ CUT YOUR FABRICS
From the Exterior Fabric
1a. Cut 1 piece measuring 10.5″ long x 8″ high, for 1 of the Exterior Main Panels (the other Exterior Main Panel will be assembled using your embroidery).
1b. Cut 1 piece measuring 3.75″ x 30″ for your Exterior Zipper Panel.
1c. Cut 1 piece measuring 2.5″ x 5.5″ for the Exterior Top Panel.
1d. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 10.5″ x 7″ for the Pocket.
1e. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 6.5″, for the Handles.
1f. Cut 2 strips, each measuring 1″ x 7″.
1g. Cut 2 strips, each measuring 7/8″ x 11.5″
From the Interior Fabric
1h. Repeat Steps 2a. through 2c. for the Interior pieces.
1i. Cut 5 pieces, each measuring 4″ x 18-1/2″ for the Dividers.
From the Pellon Thermolam
1j. Cut 4 pieces, each measuring 8″ x 10.5″
1k. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 3.75″ x 30″.
1l. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 2.5″ x 5.5″.
1m. Cut 1 piece measuring 1″ x 5.25″ for the Handle Insert.
From the Pellon SF-101
1n. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 6.5″.
1o. Cut 5 pieces, each measuring 4″ x 18-1/2″ (dividers)
1p. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 10.5″ x 7″.
From the Pellon Decor Bond
1q. Cut 10 pieces, each measuring 1-1/4″ x 17″ (dividers)
STEP 2 ~ EMBROIDER THE DESIGN
2a. Using your 9″ x 7″ piece of fabric, embroider the design using the attached template and instructions.
2b. Take one of your 1″ x 7″ strips cut from the exterior fabric. The long edge of the strip should be even with the right-hand edge of your embroidered piece. Sew, right sides together, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining 1″ x 7″ strip and the left-hand edge of the embroidery. Press seams open.
2c. Take one of your 7/8″ x 11.5″ strips cut from the exterior fabric. The long edge of the strip should be even with the top edge of your embroidered piece. Sew, right sides together, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining 7/8″ x 11.5″ strip and the bottom edge of the embroidery. Press seams open. This assembled embroidered piece will now serve as one of your Exterior Main Panels.
STEP 3 ~ FUSE YOUR FABRICS
3a. Take 1 Exterior Main Panel and one of the corresponding pieces of Pellon Thermolam. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the Exterior Main Panel according to manufacturer instructions. Repeat for the remaining Exterior Main Panel, the Exterior Zipper Panel, Exterior Top Panel, both Interior Main Panels, Interior Zipper Panel, and the Interior Top Panel.
3b. Take 1 Pocket piece and one of the corresponding pieces of Pellon SF-101. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the Pocket according to manufacturer instructions. Repeat for the remaining Pocket and both of the Handle pieces.
STEP 4 ~ ATTACH THE ZIPPER
4a. Take your Exterior Zipper Panel and cut it in half, lengthwise.
4b. Place the resulting 2 pieces right sides together. With your fabric marker, measure and make a mark that is 1″ in from that left-hand edge. Do the same for the right-hand edge. Sew from the mark to the corresponding edge (each line of stitching will be only 1″ long), using a 5/8″ seam allowance.
STEP 5 ~ MAKE THE HANDLE
5a. Take both of your Handle pieces, and place them right sides together. Sew along both of the long edges.
5b. Turn your Handle right side out through one of the openings. Press. Pass the Thermolam Handle Insert into the tube. Fuse according to manufacturer instructions.
Helpful Hint: Use a safety pin attached to one end of the Handle Insert to pass it through the tube more easily.
5c. Turn both of the unfinished edges in by approximately 1/2″. Topstitch 1/4″ from both of the finished edges.
5d. Take your Exterior Top Panel. Make a mark that is in 1″ from both of the short edges.
5e. Place 1 short edge of the Handle to the inside of one of the marks that you just made, and centered. Pin in place. Do the same thing for the remaining short edge of the Handle. Sew on top of the Handle, 1/8″ from both short edges. Then sew another line of stitches that is 1/8″ from the previous stitching.
STEP 6 ~ ASSEMBLE THE BAG
6a. Place both Pocket pieces right sides together. Sew along 1 long edge. Press the seam open.
6b. Turn the fabrics so that they are wrong sides together, press again, and topstitch the straight edge, 1/8″ from the edge.
6c. Take the Exterior Main Panel without the embroidery, and place the Pocket that you just sewed, with the bottom raw edges of both even. Baste the Pocket to the Exterior Main Panel using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
6d. Take the Exterior Zipper Panel and the Exterior Top Panel and place them, right sides together, along one short edge. Sew. Press seam open.
6h. Notch small v’s into the seam allowance of the corners of both Exterior Main Panels, being careful not to cut into the seam allowance.
6i. Repeat Steps 4a. and 4b. for the Interior Zipper Panel. Press the center of the panel in by 5/8″ on each side.
6j. USING A 5/8″ SEAM ALLOWANCE (this will help the interior sit snuggly in the exterior), repeat Steps 6d. through 6h. to assemble the Interior.
6k. Turn your exterior right side out and your interior wrong side out. Place the interior inside of the exterior (so that wrong sides will be touching). Pin in place along the pressed edges of the Interior Zipper Panel against the wrong side of your zipper.
6m. Please give your bag a good pressing for a nice, professional look.
STEP 7 ~ ASSEMBLE THE DIVIDERS
7a. Take 1 of your Divider pieces and fold it in half, right sides together, along the long edge. Sew along that long edge.
7b. Turn your Divider right side out using the turning tool. Press. Turn 1 raw edge in by approximately 1/2″. Press.
7c. Slip 2 pieces of your Decor Bond inside of the assembled Divider. Again, using a safety pin to guide the Decor Bond through the tube will be helpful. Fuse according to manufacturer instructions.
7d. Measuring in from the raw edge of the Divider, make the following marks:
7e. Stitch on top of the marks that you just drew.
7f. Slide the raw edge of the Divider into the pressed edge on the opposite end, by 1/4″. Topstitch 1/4″ from the pressed edge (this will create a ‘ring’ with the fabric).
7g. Press along the 4 stitched lines. This will create a rectangle.
7h. Repeat Steps 7a. through 7g. to assemble all 5 Dividers.
7i. Place one Divider on top of another, along the long edges. Topstitch along both long edges, approximately 1/8″ from the edge. Continue adding another Divider until all 5 are connected.
7j. Place the assembled Divider inside of your bag.
Optional: You may wish to adhere the Divider to the bottom half of your interior with fabric glue.
Congratulations, you’ve finished!!
If you have any questions about this pattern, feel free to e-mail me directly at firstname.lastname@example.org, or check out my Flickr Group! I would love to see your completed project posted there!