ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 1/2″ UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.
Printable Instructions and Pattern Pieces
- 1/4 yard (or a fat quarter) exterior fabric
- 2/3 yard interior fabric
- 1/2 yard side accent/handle fabric
- 2 yards Pellon SF-101 fusible woven interfacing
- 1/2 yard Pellon Fusible Fleece
- 1/2 yard Pellon Decor-Bond
- magnetic snap
- metal buckle with tongue (I used the Dritz 1-5/8″ fashion buckle)
- coordinating thread
- hand sewing needle
STEP 1 ~ CUT OUT YOUR FABRIC
From the Exterior Fabric
1a. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 8″ x 11″. These will be your Exterior Main Panels.
From the Interior Fabric
1b. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 11″ x 11″. These will be your Interior Main Panels.
1c. Cut 4 pieces, each measuring 11″ x 6″. These will be the Pockets.
From the Accent Fabric
1d. Cut 4 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 11″. These will be the Side Panels.
1e. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 3″. These will be the Bottom Strap pieces.
1f. Using the Top Strap piece that you printed out, cut 2 pieces from the Accent Fabric.
1g. Using the Handle pattern piece that you printed out, cut 4 pieces from the Accent Fabric.
From the Pellon SF-101 Fusible Woven Interfacing
1h. Repeat Step 1a. through Step 1g.
From the Pellon Fusible Fleece
1i. Repeat Step 1a. and Step 1b. Also cut two 2″ x 2″ squares from the fleece.
From the Pellon Decor-Bond
1j. Cut 8 pieces from the Handle pattern piece. Trim the Handle by approximately 1/4″ on all edges (except trim by 1/2″ in the inner circle) in order to reduce bulk in the seam allowance.
1k. Cut 8 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 11″.
STEP 2 ~ FUSE YOUR FABRICS
2a. Take 1 Exterior Main Panel and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse the woven interfacing to the wrong side of the Exterior Main Panel using manufacturer instructions. Then, fuse the fusible fleece to the interfaced side of the Exterior Main Panel. Repeat for the other Exterior Main Panel.
2b. Repeat Step 2a. for both Interior Main Panels.
2c. Take one Bottom Strap Piece and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse. Repeat for the remaining Bottom Strap Piece, both of the Top Strap Pieces, and each of the Pockets.
2d. Take one Handle Piece and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse. Then, fuse a Decor Bond Handle piece to the interfaced side of the Handle. Repeat so that you have fused a total of 2 pieces of Decor Bond to the Handle. Repeat this step for the remaining Handle pieces, and also for all of the Side Panels.
STEP 3 ~ ASSEMBLE THE INTERIOR
3a. Take 2 of the Pocket pieces and place them, right sides together. Sew along one 11″ edge. Press seam open.
3b. Turn the Pocket so it is wrong sides together. Press again along the sewn edge so that it lies flat. Topstitch 1/4″ from the edge.
3c. Repeat Step 3a. and Step 3b. for the 2 remaining Pocket pieces.
3d. Take one of the Interior Main Panels, right side facing you. Lay one Pocket with the raw edge even with the bottom of the Interior Main Panel. Pin, then baste along the raw edges of the Pocket (you will not baste the sewn edge of the Pocket). Repeat for the remaining Interior Main Panel and Pocket.
3e. Take one of the Handle Pieces. Sew along 1 long edge, pivoting through the curve, approximately 1/4″ from the raw edge of the fabric. Also sew 1/2″ along the inside circle of the Handle. Clip the ‘valley’ of the fabric with slits, and notch the ‘peak’ of the fabric with small v’s, approximately every 1/2″. Be sure not to cut in to your stitching.
3f. Turn your iron on. Using your fingers, turn the fabric to the wrong side at your stitches, then slowly ease along your fabric with your iron. It is especially important to press the inside circle very well.
3g. Repeat Step 3e. and Step 3f. for all 4 Handle pieces (set 2 of the Handles aside for the exterior).
3h. Take one Interior Main Panel and measure down 3/4″ from the top (the pocket will be at the bottom). Make a mark on the top left and top right corners. Align the bottom straight edges of the Handle along the marks that you made, and pin to the Interior Main Panel. Edgestitch on the Handle along the long pressed edge, 1/8″ from the edge. You will not stitch the inside circle of the Handle at this time.
3i. Trim inside the inner circle of the Handle where the Interior Main Panel is sticking out. You’ll want to flip it over to the wrong side and trim an additional 1/2″ away.
3j. Repeat Step 3h. and Step 3i. for the other Interior Main Panel and Handle.
STEP 4 ~ INSTALL THE MAGNETIC SNAP
4a. Take 1 Interior Main Panel piece and 1 of the fleece squares that you cut in Step 1i. Take the washer from one of the prongs and mark the prong placement with a fabric marker or chalk, approximately in the center of the Thermolam. Cut small slits at the marks. The reason that you are using the fleece is that it will help to reinforce your fabric against the pull from the magnetic snap every time you open and shut the clutch.
Helpful Hint: I like to put a dab of Fray Check on the slits that were cut. I feel this helps the fabric hold up a bit better under the stress of the magnetic snap.
4d. Slide the prongs of the snap through the right side of the Interior Main Panel. Place the fleece square, then the washer, over the prongs. Close the prongs outward (use pliers with a piece of scrap fabric over the metal, if you need to), making sure they lie flat.
4e. Repeat Steps 4a. through 4d. to attach the other half of the snap to the other Interior Main Panel.
STEP 5 ~ ASSEMBLE THE EXTERIOR
5a. Take one of your Exterior Main Panels and one Side Panel. With right sides facing, place the Side Panel along the 11″ edge on the left-hand side of the Exterior Main Panel. Sew along the 11″ edge. Press seam toward the Side Panel. Repeat this step for another Side Panel and the right-hand side of the Exterior Main Panel.
5b. Edgestitch on the Side Panel 1/8″ from the seam on the left side of the Exterior. Then edgestitch 1/4″ from the stitches that you just made. Sew slowly, and make sure that the seam allowance is underneath your stitching; this will ensure that it gets tacked down securely. Now your Side Panel will have a nice finished look. Repeat for the right side of the Exterior.
5c. Repeat Step 3h. to attach each remaining Handle to each Exterior Main Panel.
STEP 6 ~ ASSEMBLE THE STRAPS/BUCKLE
6a. Take both of your Bottom Strap pieces. Place them right sides together, and stitch along each 3″ edge. Turn Bottom Strap right side out and press.
6b. Make a mark on the bottom of one Exterior Main Panel, over 4-7/8″ from the left hand edge.
6c. Place your Bottom Strap piece to the right of the mark that you made in Step 6b. One raw edge of the Bottom Strap should be even with the raw edge of the Exterior Main Panel. Slide the metal buckle over the Bottom Strap, then fold the Bottom Strap down so that now both of the raw edges of the Bottom Strap are even with the bottom of the Exterior Main Panel. Pin in place.
6d. Take both of the Top Strap pieces and place them, right sides together. Sew along 3 edges but do not sew the short straight edge.
6e. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″, and clip the corner off, which will help it lie more flat. Turn the Top Strap right sides out and press.
6f. Edgestitch the Top Strap 1/8″ from the sewn edges (again, do not sew the straight short edge), being sure to pivot at the corners; then edgestitch the Top Strap 1/4″ from what you just sewed.
6g. On the Top Strap piece, make a buttonhole 1-1/2″ down from the pointed top corner.
6h. Remove the pin from under the Bottom Strap. Slide the Top Strap piece under the Bottom Strap piece, making sure to re-adjust the buckle. The raw edges of all Strap pieces should be even with the bottom edge of the Exterior Main Panel. Re-pin.
6i. Baste across the bottom of the Exterior Main Panel, attaching the Strap pieces. Sew horizontally right under the metal buckle, as close to the buckle as you are able to (you might want to pop your zipper foot on for this).
STEP 7 ~ ASSEMBLE THE CLUTCH
7a. Take both Interior Main Panels, and place right sides together. Pin along the 3 straight edges. Sew along those 3 straight edges only, with a 5/8″ seam. This will help the interior fit more snuggly inside your exterior. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″. Clip the 2 bottom corners, being careful not to cut into your stitching. Leave the Interior wrong side out.
7b. Take both Exterior Main Panels, and place right sides together (you might want to buckle the strap so that it does not get caught in the stitching). Pin along the 3 straight edges. Sew along those 3 straight edges only, with a 1/2″ seam. When you get to the part where the straps are, sew slowly or hand crank your needle, and backstitch again (to give the strap added strength). Clip the 2 bottom corners. Press seams open, and turn the Exterior right side out.
7c. Place the Exterior inside of the Interior. Make sure the Handles and the side seams are aligned, then pin in place. Make sure you pin an exterior handle to an interior handle (otherwise you might be sewing the bag shut!).
7d. Sew the top of the Handles, all along the top of the clutch, with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Do not stitch the inside circles. Clip the ‘valley’ of the fabric with slits, and notch the ‘peak’ of the fabric with small v’s, approximately every 1/2″. Be sure not to cut in to your stitching.
7e. Turn the clutch right side out through one of the openings. Edgestitch the tops of the handles, 1/4″ from the edge, all the way around.
7f. Match the insides of the handles. You should have a nice pressed edge to work with from earlier. Pin the inside circles. Edgestitch the inside circles, 1/4″ from the edge. Note: Depending on your machine, you may not be able to sew around the entire inside circle of the handles. I was able to sew half by machine and half by hand. This is the trickiest (and last!) step of the pattern, so take your time…the results will be worth your patience!
CONGRATULATIONS! You’re finished!
Give your bag a good pressing for a professional-looking finish. Now you have a tote that collapses into a clutch, held in place with the metal buckle!
If you have any questions about this pattern, feel free to e-mail me directly at firstname.lastname@example.org, or check out my Flickr Group! I would love to see your completed project posted there!