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Sewing Back-to-School: Interfacing

This post is part of the Sewing Back-to-School series, 30 days of helpful sewing articles by guest bloggers. Feel free to check out the original Sewing Back-to-School post for schedule and previous posts!

Hello everyone! Thanks so much for visiting my blog for the ‘Sewing Back-to-School’ series! I hope you’ve enjoyed it! My topic today is on interfacing. Interfacing is one of my most favorite things, besides the fabric itself. Interfacing can turn a light piece of fabric into a stiff bag that will stand up by itself. Interfacing can give body to the waistband of a skirt. Interfacing can do many things, but it can also be confusing. When shopping for interfacing at the fabric store, you will run into dozens and dozens of white bolts (and some even in black). Today, I’m going to talk about the ones I use most often.

Pellon SF-101 {Shape-Flex Cotton Woven Fusible}
For sewing projects, this is the interfacing that I use the most often. It comes with a light purple label on the bolt (it’s the 4th from the left in the above picture…SF-101). Often on my blog, I just refer to this one as ‘fusible woven interfacing’. Joann’s sells this for $4.99/yard, and it’s 20″ wide.

It is fusible (the glue on the interfacing melts from the heat of your iron) on one side, so you would iron it with the fusible side (the fusible side feels rough/tacky) against the wrong side of your actual fabric. You should always using a pressing cloth against the non-fusible side of the interfacing. After fusing, your actual fabric and the interfacing will become a single unit.

The Pellon SF-101 interfacing will not make your fabric stiff, but it will lend it more body. For example, when ironed on to a quilting-weight/mid-weight cotton fabric, the fabric will now have the body of a decor-weight fabric. It is great for areas of a project that take a little more wear, such as the pockets of a bag.

Body of this bag made with Pellon SF-101 Interfacing

This interfacing can be used by itself, or in combination with other interfacings. For example, you can have one layer of Pellon SF-101, followed by a layer of Pellon Thermolam (more on that later). The reason that the Pellon SF-101 gets fused to your actual fabric first is that it provides a nice, smooth base, since it is woven like your actual fabric probably is. The Pellon Thermolam, which is a fleece fusible interfacing, is thicker, like actual fleece fabric, but it can look wrinkly (in my opinion), so that’s why it comes after the Pellon SF-101, if you’re using it for a bag.

This bag was made with a layer of Pellon SF-101, followed with a layer of Pellon Thermolam

Pellon SF-101 is also great to have around when you are sewing clothing. Since it makes the fabric more stable, it can help in the areas of a garment that take more wear/movement, such as a collar, arm holes, or a waistband. In the picture below, I fused the Pellon SF-101 to the waistband piece. This is a high waistband, and the interfacing helps give it the support it needs (otherwise it might look wrinkly or misshapen).

I used Pellon SF-101 interfacing in the waistband of this skirt.

Pellon #987F {Fusible Fleece}
This interfacing is available on the light green bolts at the store. It is fusible on one side. It is fleece, but it is loftier/fluffier than the Thermolam (up next on my list!). I have used this before and did not care for it, at least in the types of projects I’ve made. It’s just not dense enough for me, so I’m going to move on.

Pellon Thermolam Plus
This interfacing also comes as a one-sided fusible, and also with the light green label on the bolt. It is fleece, like the Pellon #987F, but the major difference is that the Thermolam is needled, so that it is a denser fabric. In my mind, this comparison is similar to that (if you’re a quilter) of Warm and Natural batting, and some of the other cotton or polyester battings that are available. The Warm and Natural is needled also, so it lays more flat and is not fluffy like some other battings.

As you saw in my bag above with the pink pom-poms, it can be used as an additional interfacing layer with Pellon SF-101. It makes bags feel very sturdy and store-bought.

I quilted the damask fabric in this project before assembling the fabric pieces

Thermolam would also be great if you wanted to add some quilted detail to a project. You could fuse the Thermolam to the wrong side of your patchwork or other fabric (as in my photo above), and machine quilt it without having to baste it or use pins.

I’ve added an extra piece of interfacing where I have inserted the metal magnetic snap

Another side mention for the Theromolam is that I  use it all the time to enforce magnetic snaps. Magnetic snaps are metal, and I am always nervous that the extra weight of opening and closing them all the time will wear away at the fabric. So I always interface the fabric that the snap is going into as per the pattern instructions, and then fuse a scrap of Thermolam before I insert the snap. In my photo above, I’m showing you the lining side, wrong side of a flap for a bag where the magnetic snap is going. As you can see, I’ve fused that extra bit of Thermolam on before I inserted the snap. It doesn’t have to be a certain size, I just cut a piece depending on the scraps I have lying around.

Pellon Peltex #70 {Extra Firm Sew In Stabilizer}
I use several different kinds of Peltex, and the Peltex #70 is first on the list. It comes on a bolt with a yellow label. Unlike the other interfacings that we’ve talked about so far, Peltex #70 is not fusible. It is a sew-in interfacing, which means that you will have to secure it to your actual fabric by another means, usually basting or sewing through the two layers at once. It is one of the stiffest interfacings out there, and will make your project holds its shape and stand up on its own.

If you’d like to use Peltex #70 without having to baste or sew it to your fabric first, you do have an option! You can cut your fabric out, then the Peltex #70, and finally a layer of Pellon SF-101. Using a ruler and marking pen, you would then mark your Peltex #70 at 1/2″ margin, all the way around the piece. Trim at your marks, making the Peltex #70 a half-inch smaller than the actual fabric. Next, layer your fabric, then the Peltex #70, and finally the Pellon SF-101. When you fuse the Pellon SF-101, it will attach to your actual fabric at the seam allowance, sealing in the Peltex #70. Having the smaller Peltex #70 piece will also keep the bulk out of your seam allowances. And you’re all good to continue on with the project!

One of the reasons that you would use Peltex #70 instead of another heavy fusible interfacing, is if you are working over a larger area. My example below is a bag that I made using Peltex #70. As you can see, it is quite a large bag. If I had used a Peltex fusible interfacing instead, the whole area of the bag would look ‘fused’, meaning, very crinkly looking. Not how you want your bag to look. So I basted the Peltex #70 to the wrong side of my actual fabric (or you could layer it with a piece of Pellon SF-101, as I mentioned above).

This bag was made using Pellon Peltex #70 interfacing

Another great reason to have some Peltex #70 around is for bag handle inserts. Some sewing patterns for bags call for you to create sort of a double-bias piece for each handle, meaning that your raw edges would not be exposed. I cut a strip of 1-1/2″ wide Peltex #70 for each of the handles in the bag below, and slide them into each handle piece before topstitching along each long edge. It makes the handles very stable…as you can see from my photo below, the handles are basically standing up on their own.

The handles of this bag were made using inserts, which were strips of Peltex #70

Pellon Peltex #71F {Single-sided Fusible}
I have to admit, I really really love this interfacing. It is the heaviest duty fusible interfacing that I use, but it can be scary because it is so stiff (it makes sewing through multiple layers very tricky). This is slightly stiffer than the Peltex #70 (because of the fusible aspect). To fuse it to fabric, you would place the tacky side against the wrong side of your actual fabric. It also helps to mist your presser cloth before pressing, and use plenty of steam. After I press, I like to flip the fabric over and iron lightly on the right side of the actual fabric, to make sure there are no puckers in the fabric. If you find a pucker right away, no problem! While the interfacing is still warm, you should be able to gently peel away the offending area, and reposition it.

This is a piece of fabric fused with Peltex #71F; as you can see, I’m holding it up and the fabric doesn’t flop over

I probably use Peltex #71-F a lot more than I should…I just love a stiff bag. It is a good idea to cut your Peltex #71-F a half-inch smaller than your actual fabric (as I recommended earlier for the Peltex #70), to keep the bulk out of your seam allowances.

I made this clutch using Peltex #71-F on the main portion of the bag (not the flap)

Pellon #808 Craft-Fuse and Pellon #809 Decor-Bond
I have used each of these one or two times in the past. I suppose since I use other interfacings more often and tend to have them on hand instead, I use what I have. These are both light-weight iron-on stabilizers, and come on the bolts with the yellow label. They are really good for home decor items, or as a stabilizer when doing machine applique.

Other Fusible Garment Interfacings
I like sewing clothes, but so far I haven’t ventured out into a huge variety of different garment fabrics. However, if you are going to choose a different fabric for your clothes that isn’t a woven, chances are you will need a fusible interfacing for a neckline, armhole, waistband, etc. These come on the bolts with the light purple label. I’m just briefly going to touch on these, as the application will generally be the same.

#845F Designers Lite for crepe, rayon, and satin
#855F Tailor’s Elite for wool, wool crepe, and corduroy
#880F Sof Shape especially for fabric with a drape
#906F for crepe de chine and voile

There are many, many interfacings that I have not touched on (just because I have not personally used them). For more information, click here to take you to a helpful table from Pellon with all the different types of interfacings, and their common uses!

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39 thoughts on “Sewing Back-to-School: Interfacing

  1. CreativeMama says:

    very useful post! i got to know about different types of interfacing available off the shelf! Alas i won’t be able to get them as here in India, atleast in craft stores that i shop, there are no branded ones, and is not labelled and hence you can’t quite make out the different between them by looking at them, i need to test them to figure out where they can be used!

    Adithi’s Amma from Adithis Amma Sews

    1. Uma Ramnath says:

      Yes really… Difficult to find a suitable interface. I live in muscat… Not able to get these ones…

  2. Anita says:

    Wonderful insights…I’ve used a great number of those! =) I tend to put the Thermolan in my totes, because it’s thicker than the fleece. I’ve use a variety of other fusible interfacing’s as well.

  3. Thank you SOOOO much! You have definitely cleared up many of the questions I had about interfacing. Sometimes a tutorial will say use medium weight interfacing… so, I head over to Joann’s and there’s 30 bolts of interfacing! “OH Gosh! where do I begin”, I think. Then I take my best guess 🙂 Usually the wrong one, but hey, I have plenty of the stuff lying around now! 🙂

    The one thing, I figured, but did not realize until I read this post is what the color coding was for.

    Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! 🙂

  4. suemac says:

    I guess I did not know much about interfacing. I think that is what is keeping me from making a bag. Great tutorial.

  5. Carolyn S. says:

    I am loving all the great information you have been posting. So very generous of you to share your knowledge!
    Carolyn

  6. Frances says:

    Thanks for the great rundown! I needed this… the other day I walked into the local fabric store and asked for “double-sided fusible interfacing”… After much confusion and me looking like an idiot we figured out what I wanted was fusible web. D’oh!

  7. Thanks so much! Do you have online suggestions of where to buy interfacing?

  8. elizabeth says:

    Just found your blog (I think I have been hiding under a rock) and LOVE it! Great series!

  9. Vanilla says:

    Thanks for the great informative post! I love your skirt!! Great fabric!

  10. Thanks so much for this post. It came at the perfect time, I’m making my first bag this weekend and I’ve been trying to figure out what interfacing to use! Thanks!

  11. Tanya c. says:

    Thank you very much for such a useful information. I have been wondering about inferfacing so your article has really helped. 🙂

  12. This is some fantastic information, Sara. I’m saving this. Thanks for putting this together.

  13. Mama Mel says:

    Thanks so much! I’ve started working with stabilizers and wan’t sure which you use when. I need to get some of that super sturdy one to make some small storage boxes.

  14. paulette says:

    A VERY informative post!! Thank you very much!! Sounds like the Thermalam is what I need for my project!! Didn’t know this…would have gone for the fusible fleece! Take care and keep pumping out the info!! We love it…and NEED it!
    P

  15. Ann says:

    I’m off to shop for the interfacings you have recommended. Right now I am woefully discouraged – I’ve been using fusible fleece for 100% cotton totes and, without exception, the finished bags will look puckered or wrinkled. Who wants to press their purse everytime they use it?

  16. kittyj says:

    I get so confused on the different interfacings. I like my bags and purses to have a firm shape but when I use the Peltex 71 it is hard to turn the bag. The decor bond tends to wrinkle when using it. I do like the fusible fleece or thermalam but it can make your bag too puffy. What’s a girl to do? LOL I do like woven fusible interfacing, Shape Flex, but wish it came in a bit heavier weight.

  17. Mermaid Sews says:

    Dude, thank you so much for this. Printed it out and will bring with me next time i go to jo-ann’s always so lost!

  18. Jasee says:

    I am looking for instructions on same material interfacing.
    The dress looked so easy until–the interfacing.
    Hope I can find it somewhere.
    I don’t make bags.

  19. Jasee says:

    I am looking for instructions on same material interfacing.
    The dress looked so easy until–the interfacing.
    Hope I can find it somewhere.
    I don’t make bags.

  20. Thank you, I found this helpful and easy to understand! I am creating a circle skirt and wanted to do a waistband similar to what you had, and I was wondering if interfacing was what I would want to use, question answered, thank you! 🙂

  21. Kim says:

    This was a VERY helpful post! I mostly quilt but have started making bags and clothes in recent years and was always confused by the assortment of interfacing. I especially appreciate that you shared what you’ve used and had success with in various projects.

  22. Connie says:

    Thanks so much for clarifying all the different inter facings, they are so confusing to most

  23. Yettie says:

    I always wondered why some of my bags don’t come out the way I envisiaged. Now I know. Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge.

  24. Yettie says:

    I always wondered why some of my bags don’t come out the way I envisiaged. Now I know. Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge.

  25. AimeeKnows says:

    Oh wow. This was very helpful, but I’m still confused! I don’t know if I’m brave enough to try using this stuff. It seems so useful though. I’m going to bookmark this for future use. Thanks!

  26. Susan says:

    I was wondering what wide waist band skirt pattern you used for the example its a pattern I’ve been looking for but sadly can’t find.

  27. Abby says:

    You are a lifesaver. I’m sewing a circle skirt, and I had no idea what interfacing to buy for the waistband. Thank you!

  28. Jen says:

    I love the A line skirt you pictured in this article, is this pattern available?

    1. Sara Lawson says:

      Hi Jen, it is the Ginger by Colette Patterns.

  29. Thanks so much for clarifying all the confusion.

  30. HEETS UAE says:

    Thank you, I found this helpful and easy to understand!

  31. Thermalam would also be great if you wanted to add some quilted detail to a project and Thermalam is what every one will need for their projects. I am loving all the great information you have been posting. Keep it up

  32. I have to admit, I really really love this interfacing. It is the heaviest duty fusible interfacing that you use, but it can be scary because it is so stiff and it makes sewing through multiple layers very tricky.

  33. Great Post but I want to add one thing is that the Pellon SF-101 is also great to have around when you are sewing clothing. Since it makes the fabric more stable, it can help in the areas of a garment that take more wear and movement, such as a collar, arm holes, or a waistband.

  34. Hello! Thanks so much for providing awesome blog of the ‘Sewing Back-to-School’ series! I have enjoyed it! your blog topic is on interfacing and Interfacing is one of my most favorite things, besides the fabric itself. Interfacing can turn a light piece of fabric into a stiff bag that will stand up by itself.

  35. Yes Interfacing can do many things, but it can also be confusing because When shopping for interfacing at the fabric store, you will run into dozens and dozens of white bolts and some even in black.

  36. aevapeae says:

    Thank you so much for awesome blog of the ‘Sewing Back-to-School’ ! So like to read it

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