Garments

Assignment: Derby Dress

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Today, I’m showing the finished Christine Haynes Derby Dress that I made before Christmas! This is a loose, a-line dress that pulls on over the head. There is an option for either the ruffled neckline with tie belt, or Peter Pan collar with ruffled hem. Because this is a loose style, I wanted it to drape, so I opted for voile fabric. I used out-of-print Tula Pink voile from the Prince Charming line and 40wt. Aurifil thread. The pattern also calls for interfacing, and for that I used Pellon #911FF fusible featherweight.

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So, let’s note my measurements so I can explain how I chose my size:

  • High bust (at underarm): 31″
  • Full bust: 31-1/4″
  • Waist: 25-1/2″
  • Hip: 34-1/4″

According to the back of the pattern, I should use size 0 for the bust, size 4 for the waist, and size 2 for the hip. Since this is such a loose style (really loose), I felt comfortable choosing size 0 across the board. Since the difference of my high best (31″) and full bust (31-1/4″) is less than 1, that puts me at an A-cup (A=less than 1″, B=2″, C=3″, D=4″, and so on). Since most patterns draft for a B-cup, that means that I need to do a small-bust adjustment. I referenced the Craftsy class Adjust the Bust, although many pattern fitting books also tell how to do a bust adjustment. I did the small bust adjustment to my traced pattern pieces (I use Pellon #830 Easy Pattern to trace my pattern pieces onto using carbon paper, it’s lightweight yet durable) before I even made the muslin. This dress has princess seams, so adjusting is just a matter of taking some out of the bust point on the side front piece, and making a height adjustment to the center front piece.

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So I sewed up a muslin. Upon trying it on, the princess seams were hitting to the side of my chest (usually a princess seam goes directly on top of the bust). I made a small adjustment to the “fold” area of the center front pattern piece by taking out 1/2″ at the top and gradually fading to nothing. I should also add that when I traced the pattern pieces onto the Pellon Easy Pattern, I also drew the facings (facings are used in place of a lining, and cover just a small area, usually at necklines or arm holes) directly on top of the appropriate pattern pieces where the facings would later be sewn (i.e. the center front, etc.). I learned this from the Adjust the Bust class that I mentioned earlier; it’s helpful to transfer the facings directly on top of those pattern pieces, so if you need to make any changes to those pattern pieces in the areas that the facings are, it’s really easy to adjust the facing pattern pieces because they’ve essentially already been altered with the main pattern pieces (rather than going back in after the fact and trying to figure out how to fix the facing to match the altered center front pattern piece).

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Overall, this pattern was really fun to sew (and pretty easy to fit; since it’s such a loose style, there’s a lot of leeway). The instructions are fabulous, with illustrations for pretty much every step, and I had no problem visualizing what I was supposed to do next. I chose the ruffle neckline, and the ruffle is added to the top of the front of the dress, then the facing, and finally the bias-cut straps. Because the straps are cut on the bias, they stretch a tiny bit and fall nicely over the shoulders. The length of the straps can be adjusted before attaching them to the back of the dress, through a hole that is left in the back facings, for a neat finish.

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I like the belt in the pattern, because it allows the dress to go from a loose-fitting dress to a sweet summer dress that’s all pulled in together along the waist. The dress is so light and fun. I definitely recommend making it in voile, the ruffle hangs just fantastically. I’m looking forward to making another!

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10 thoughts on “Assignment: Derby Dress

  1. Love your fabric choice Sara! This is quite the 70’s retro look, sweet and simple. I can remember similar RTW dresses that the straps buttoned to the top back, thus giving you the option of 2 or 3 buttonholes to adjust – or even move the button until it fit perfectly. Either style, with proper adjustment, might make a cute maternity dress to help a lady through a hot summer. Donna

  2. Sara, Your dress looks marvelous! I would love to try something in voile

  3. nickeya says:

    This looks so comfortable and cozy and love the pattern!

  4. The dress looks great! I so wish the weather was warm enough for me to wear something sleeveless!

  5. thelittlestthistle says:

    So pretty! No you just need a fairy godmother to whisk you away to a tropical island 🙂

  6. Wow !!! It’s really cute 🙂

  7. Beth says:

    A really cute dress. Now we just need a heat wave so you can wear it.

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