Garments

Assignment: Butterick 6019

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I am reallyreallyreallyreallyreallyreally excited to show you this dress!! I worked really hard on it. I knew it would be a challenging dress to fit, with the bra cups in the bodice and all, but I did it, and it fits great! Woohoo!

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This is the Butterick 6019 pattern by Gertie of Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing. At the beginning of January, my friend Kerry pointed out to me that Gertie was having a contest, deadline of January 31st, to make any of her Butterick patterns. Since I’m working on my garment making challenge (see the other projects that I completed this year here), I decided, why not. And so of course I chose what looked like the most challenging pattern. Of course. But I don’t think you can deny that the cover photographs look amazing.

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Even though the pattern comes with bodice/bra pattern pieces for each cup size (A/B, C, D), based on the couple of on-line reviews that I read for this pattern, and based on my own experience making this, I think it’s fair to say that most everyone will need to do some tweaking to the cups. Breast shape, I think, is very specific to the person, so that’s why things will need to be tweaked.

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Okay, so let’s look at my measurements and what size I cut. My high bust is 31″, my full bust is 31-1/4″, waist is 25-1/2″, and hip is 34-1/4″. According to the size chart on the inside of the envelope, that puts me at a size 8 for the bust and size 10 for the waist and hip. I used the A/B cup pattern pieces. I cut the size 8 for the bra cup pieces, then for the front panels underneath the bra cups, melded from size 8 at the top down to size 10. I cut size 10 for the skirt pieces.

After transferring my pattern pieces to Pellon Easy Pattern using carbon paper and tracing wheel, I made 4 muslins for the front bodice of the dress. I used the first muslin to pinch out the extra fabric in the bra cups (the extra fabric was making my chest look really pointy), and then realized that I was mistakenly fitting the muslin with my regular bra, and this is a halter dress, and a strapless bra would need to be used, and no doubt would make everything look different. So I made another muslin. I added a bit of height to the very top fabric piece of the cups, because based on the muslin, it looked like the finished bodice would hit right exactly at my bra, and I didn’t want any risk of the top edge of my bra showing, so I added 1/2″ in height to that.

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The third and fourth muslins were very confusing to me because to me, it looked like I was getting an extra poof of fabric right below the cups (that panel right below is shaped like a house/roof), so I spent ages fiddling with the angle of that piece. Long story short, eventually I found out that there really was no poof of fabric. I cried out on Instagram asking for help, and got a dozen different responses, one of them being to iron. I didn’t know which suggestion to try first, so for the heck of it I ironed the muslin better, and what do you know…no poof. Sigh. So before you let yourself get to the breaking point, make sure you’ve done the basics first. lol.

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I felt like Gertie did a really wonderful job of writing this pattern, and I understood each step; the illustrations were clear as well. I felt like I was getting a little bit extra of an explanation in certain areas (i.e. how to shir; I’d done this before, but someone who never has, it was explained in detail, from how to wind the elastic thread on the bottom, what stitch length to use, and to remember to steam the finished threads to help them shrink up a bit), which I liked. I’d rather have this than not enough (who wouldn’t?). There are a lot of steps to this pattern, but each one is manageable.

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This dress uses so many different techniques to put it together, it’s amazing. There’s shirring on the side back panels, which I already mentioned. The bra cups are lined, as well as having batting for a bit of extra structure (the batting pieces are cut minus the seam allowance, butted up together, and then I used a zig-zag stitch to hold them together). There is boning in the front and the back. The pattern instructs to use a lapped zipper; I’d never done one before, and so I used this free class on Craftsy, which includes lapped zipper installation. I found the video easy to understand, but after trying to put it in twice, the lapped fabric just wasn’t lying flat. I’m sure it was user error. So I ripped it out and put in an invisible zipper. In addition to that, there’s also buttons in the bodice lining to attach to the halter strap; since it’s detachable, you can where the dress as a strapless dress without the halter sometimes if you choose.

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Upon first putting in the zipper, I noticed that the back of the dress wasn’t quite tight enough, so after I ripped that lapped zipper out I trimmed 1″ off each side of the bodice/skirt at the center back seam, and in addition to that I also sliced 1/2″ off the top of the back center bodice, tapering to nothing at the waist. I transferred all this to my pattern pieces, so for next time it should come out just right the first time.

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I loved making this dress so much. It took a good amount of time (2 days dedicated sewing time), but it was totally worth it. I learned a TON. I can’t wait to make another one. I’ve always felt really self-conscious about my chest, but I feel like with this dress, it gives enough definition to the chest area (no matter what size your chest is), that I feel really good about wearing it. Because I raised that top bra piece up that 1/2″ as I mentioned earlier, I feel like I am appropriately covered, and the waist stay that I inserted using this Sewaholic tutorial (I bought some clear bathing suit clips and Petersham ribbon on Etsy for this) ensured that I wouldn’t have to hike up the dress while I was wearing it.

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For the fabric, I used a quilting cotton by Pam Kitty Morning for Lakehouse. I bought it from Pink Castle Fabrics. I used 3 yards of fabric. The bodice is lined, and for that I used pink voile from Free Spirit. It’s really soft! The thread is Omnithread white polyester thread.

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So you know what I say?? Four weeks ago, I had never made a muslin in my life and really knew nothing about how to fit a pattern. Today I’m posting this dress that was, I feel, complex to sew and challenging to fit. If you’ve been reading my garment posts and thinking, “I just can’t sew clothes” or “I tried but I don’t know how to fit my long torso/small arms/wide back”…I’m here to tell you that you TOTALLY CAN and you TOTALLY WILL if you’ll just give it a shot! Check out some of the resources I previously posted on my original garment post. You can do it.

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43 thoughts on “Assignment: Butterick 6019

  1. Jeanne says:

    you did an awesome job!!!! it looks amazing on you …congrats on a job well done!!!!

  2. Tina in NJ says:

    Beautiful job! The design is classic and modern at the same time. I’m tempted, but I’ve got too much on my plate as it is.

  3. Catherine says:

    You did an amazing job. What a gorgeous dress! Xx

  4. hassan says:

    tanks sara very nice

  5. The dress looks fabulous and you look even more fabulous in it!!

  6. mommylap says:

    I love your fabric choice, your story about the make – and your frock! It’s a winner!

  7. gogokim says:

    YAY you!!!! It looks incredible!

  8. Marge says:

    Well done Sara! Just wondering, don’t they teach Home Ec. sewing in high school anymore? When I was much younger, we just pretty much followed the patterns. I never had a dress form, but do have one now , gonna try it out someday! Keep up the good work!

  9. Barbara says:

    Great job with this dress Sara. The fabric is so cute and you tailored it to fit you perfectly. Love it!

  10. Debbie says:

    This is absolutely darling on you and how great you have learned so much. Impressive! I really appreciate your openness in sharing such detail about your experiences.

  11. Jesy says:

    Amazing! Beautiful fit! Such a fun dress 🙂

  12. lucilledupuis says:

    Now THAT’s a nicely done dress! I giggle at the pressing part. It’ seems so stupid, and yet it’s as essential for muslins as the finished product.

  13. pam says:

    I really love how this turned out, and it looks sensational on you. It’s fun reading about making clothes, growing up my mother taught me to sew and either she or I made the majority of my clothes until well into my 20s when plus sized clothing was more available. My mother and I basically were self taught, and we just carried on like we knew what we were doing. I still have a lot of old patterns, we’d swap out pieces and parts without really even thinking about it. I know our results weren’t always the greatest but it allowed for a lot of self expression over the years. Thanks for picking the Pam Kitty Garden to make this dress.. it really looks great and shows that it’s not just for quilts!

  14. Sylvia says:

    Sara, this dress is so darn cute on you and the fit, perfect. You know the saying, “if you wait long enough, everything comes back in style”? Well, it’s true, because this dress is almost an exact replica of what was in style when I was in high school, about 60+ years ago . I loved it then and I think it’s a perfect dress for the young body now, and can’t wait to see any more that you make, now that you have all the tweaking figured out.

  15. Jane says:

    That looks absolutely beautiful! Bravo to you, Sara, for the great strides you have made so quickly. This year, I began a similar project myself, but keep getting involved in other projects because I’m feeling overwhelmed with the challenge of learning something new. Your success has given me hope that maybe I can learn to make better garments too. I’ve made lots of clothing with the method I learned in high school, measure your body, pick a size from the pattern envelope, and hope for the best. Usually the results are less than stellar. Your garments are beautiful and fit perfectly. You should be very proud.

  16. Lori says:

    Just adorable!! Excellent fit. I’m loving all this garment sewing. Thanks for sharing. Doesn’t that fabric line have the word sweet in it’s name?

  17. Krista says:

    You did a great job, Sara!

    You’re my kind of girl, picking the hardest version to do first! 🙂 I would say that you nailed it!

  18. mlwilkie says:

    It looks amazing on you!! great job!!

  19. Cheryl says:

    You’ve done an amazing job! The dress is very flattering on you!

  20. catkiz says:

    What a fantastic job you did on this adorable, drool-worthy dress! You have really grown as a seamstress, and I’ve enjoyed how you’ve walked us through your challenges and problem solving. Thanks and congrats!!

  21. Beth says:

    Amazing fit. You look like a star in the that dress, with a bit of sass. Fantastic job.

  22. Peggy Phillips says:

    So cute and you did a great job. You look great in it

  23. jmnaatz says:

    I get so excited when young women sew garments. It truly is an art that can be so gratifying. You did a superb job on this and I encourage you to continue. Fitting is, I think, the #1 challenge and prevents so many sewing enthusiasts from continuing with garment making. I admire your hitting it head-on.

  24. Charlotte says:

    amazing! you did such a fantastic job!

  25. tayamg says:

    Amazing! It looks like it fit like a dream and all your hard work paid off. Enjoy it and good luck in Gertie’s contest!

  26. Gorgeous dress, it looks fantastic!!

  27. Annette says:

    You rock! I am enjoying watching your progress.

    I am waiting for you to catch the bra sewing bug :-). IMHO it’s only a mater of time…..

  28. Lisa C says:

    Happy dance for you! The dress looks amazing!

  29. Lori Smanski says:

    what a wonderfully lovely dress. This will be so much fun in the summer.

  30. Norma says:

    I love it!, Sara you are so adorable!

  31. Carrie says:

    Very very nice, Sara! And it looks awesome on you. Great work!

  32. What a fantastic job! It looks great and it fits you to a T! Pat yourself on the back!! Hugs, H in Healdsburg

  33. martha says:

    Love your dress – you are such an inspiration! Awesome sewing:)

  34. hayley says:

    Your dress looks fabulous. Well done! I am trying to make one item of clothing a month for the whole year, but I think I have a way to go til I get to where you are! Still it’s good to know if I keep plugging away I’ll get there. Thanks for the inspiration

  35. Alli says:

    Your dress looks wonderful! Thanks for the tip about the waist stay tutorial — I didn’t even know about those! 🙂

  36. magistra13 says:

    That dress is darling on you! I love the PK fabríc and the fit is impeccable 🙂

  37. You’ve done such a great job and I am completely inspired to finally make something, a shirt… a skirt… SOMETHING! About time I give this a try and I bought 48 yards of muslin so I should be good to go! Thank you for continuing to be so inspiring!

  38. Katy says:

    Ooh, bra cups and boning, very fancy! It looks fab on you, and honestly, I wish I could send you a chest donation, because that dress pattern doesn’t even come close to my cup size 😉

  39. Kaye says:

    You did a fantastic job! The fit is perfect and it looks so wonderful on you!

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